Sparrow + Wolf another off-Strip restaurant with Strip chef

It’s true, that thing about a rising tide lifting all boats: The restaurant revolution in the tourism corridor has brought some great dining to areas outside of it. We’re in the middle of the latest wave of Strip veterans establishing neighborhood beachheads, and one of the latest is Sparrow + Wolf from Brian Howard, whose credits include Comme Ca at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas.

Instead of decamping to Henderson or the western valley, Howard has settled in Chinatown. His spot, a little west of most of the action, has a neighborhood feel. Unlike the more familiar fare you might find at a neighborhood restaurant, Howard’s offerings continue to surprise.

The menu has no categories (appetizers, entrees, etc.) and doesn’t arrive with a server tutorial, refreshing on both counts. Beef cheek and bone marrow dumplings ($14) may have been less exotic than they sounded but had a luxe feeling, the meat tender and the marrow buttery. A green-onion emulsion added color to the plate and interrupted the soporific tendency of all that richness.

Plump oak-grilled sea scallops ($28) had been thoroughly caramelized for texture as well as flavor. The “Brentwood” label on a pile of crunchy-tender corn may forever evoke images of O.J., but actually referred to a prime growing region in the East Bay that’s prized for its ears of corn and is as near to “local” as desert-dwellers are likely to get. Bacon was meaty but not extremely smoky; that niche was filled by the more remote smokiness of miso butter.

Beef chunks threaded onto skewers ($19) were bold in flavor and tender in nature, and Howard showed his creativity in the accompaniments. The Vadouvan crepe pieces that brought Indian cuisine to the party by way of seasoning were deftly complemented by a sweet-and-sour chickpea relish. Howard put to good use what we used to consider byproducts, with a trace of smoked tallow butter.

Paying for bread is a subject of great debate in some circles, but in an era when many of us are trying to eat less, and an increasing number of restaurants don’t serve it, $5 seems a small price to pay for a loaf that’s exceptional — and this one was. Hearth-baked, it had a firm crust with a gratifying crunch and an interior with a large, stretchy crumb. The artistically piped squiggle of salted butter was precisely the right consistency.

Service was good overall, but what impressed most was that the fairly casual Sparrow + Wolf doesn’t skimp on the finer points, such as fresh flatware between courses. Dish-towel napkins may be trendy but they’re always effective, and a server crumbing a hard-surface table was a considerate touch. Decor is mostly in keeping with the towels, a sort of rustic/industrial mashup that’s quasi-both, but most of all, just comfortable. Cocktails are creative and chef-driven.

Asked about the restaurant’s name, Howard said it reflects his energy and search for balance, the humble forager and more ferocious predator. That’s certainly more difficult to digest than Howard’s food, but it does come through in this cozy nest with most ambitious food and beverages.


If you go

■ Sparrow + Wolf, 4480 Spring Mountain Road; 702-790-2147

■The essence: Creative, Strip-quality cuisine continues neighborhood dance.

More News

Why do many Las Vegas casinos skip floors 40-49?
Why do many Las Vegas casinos skip floors 40-49?

Most Americans might be used to hotels missing a 13th floor, but why do some casinos not have 40th floors?

What casino games give players the best odds at winning?
What casino games give players the best odds at winning?

While sections of libraries are filled with all kinds of books about strategies...

Bring the whole clan for fun, food, and relaxation
Bring the whole clan for fun, food, and relaxation

Families are the focus at Tahiti Village. The all-suites resort has the space, ...

By Tahiti Village

Recent News

Ely Duck Creek Lodge is a truly special place for guests to enjoy
Ely Duck Creek Lodge is a truly special place for guests to enjoy

Ely Duck Creek Lodge gives guests the opportunity to enjoy the beauty of the area in a comfortable and spacious house.

By Ely Duck Creek Lodge
As a veteran-owned gym, Coast2Coast fitness offers an elite experience in a peaceful environment
As a veteran-owned gym, Coast2Coast fitness offers an elite experience in a peaceful environment

Coast2Coast Fitness is a veteran-owned, private neighborhood gym with a Fitness Center and a new Performance Training Center where people experience a wide range of activities and achieve their personal goals in a comfortable environment.

Strip skyline dresses up with Super Bowl ads, projection mapping — PHOTOS
Strip skyline dresses up with Super Bowl ads, projection mapping — PHOTOS

Corporations are changing the Strip’s skyline with large hotel advertising during Super Bowl 58 week that may be seen by broadcast viewers during Sunday’s game.

Must Read Articles

Pediatric Dental Office Makes Each Visit Great for Kids
Pediatric Dental Office Makes Each Visit Great for Kids

Desert Kids Dental provides children with a kid-friendly experience that eases their fears and even allows for their visit to be fun, ensuring they will want to keep returning.

By Desert Kids Dental